Report: Wednesday 31 October 2012 – Halloween

Day 6 of the Hurricane Sandy Hostage Crisis

Yesterday it was blowing a full gale out in the Pungo River.  Not so bad tucked in here at the docks at Dowry Creek. Nobody took off today from here, of course.  Very cold - 40s with windchill down in the 30s, and very humid.  Oh, well ...

Yesterday we also made a grocery run into town; did laundry; took the lashings off the sails; and put the dodger and bimini back up [the dinghy is still lashed onto the foredeck, where it will stay until we need it again.] 

Some of the boats are pulling out this morning.  With winds still in the 20s, gusting more, we will be staying put for another day.  It's supposed to slowly get less windy and warmer over the next few days, so we hope to make the crossing of Pimlico Sound and up the Neuse River later, under more comfortable conditions. [No Neuse is Good Neuse ...]  

It's a choice between cabin fever and getting beat up at sea - don't know which is worse, but safety first ...

Mark Doyle put on a 6-hour marathon session yesterday, telling us about all the anchorages, some of the marinas, and many of the hazards and cautions as we all travel down the ICW from here (NC) to South Florida. And also later about the cross-Florida waterway and cruising SW Florida and the Keys.  You just couldn't get this kind of information anywhere else.  Also learned A LOT about diesel maintenance, batteries, solar energy panels, and LED lighting. Wow!

We have met so many other boaters here - we have invitations to stop and visit some of them in Charleston and St. Augustine. We may lay over in these great cities on our way south, but not until December when we get back on-board after turkey with our kids and grandkids in California.

No events scheduled for today in Dowry Creek, except there may be some trick-or-treating between the boats. 

Tomorrow we may finally continue heading south. Finally!

Glad we made it through a hurricane, so we don't have to do that again ...

Report: Tuesday 30 October 2012 – 07:30

Day 5 of the Hurricane Sandy Hostage Crisis

It's about over here.  Still some wind, but down around 15 knots - not sure, since the wind instrument is still buried on the console under the cover (which is well tied on).  Rain stopped yesterday.  Still very humid, cloudy. It got real cold - low down around 40 F (46 this morning now) - wind chill way below that. High in 50s today and for next several days.  Biggest problem is that the windows are still condensing moisture inside the boat (nice that this is now the big problem).  Have to adjust the fender-boards now that the wind has shifted.

Events today at Camp Dowry Creek:  0800 - Road trip. Taking marina's car to get groceries in Belhaven.  1030 - Open discussion on boats: Engine maintenance, power [batteries; solar; wind generators; gasoline generators; ...], heaters, and whatever else comes up. 1400 - Fishing onboard. 1730 - Daily cocktail party.

Some boats may be leaving as soon as tomorrow = Wednesday. We will probably wait another day after that for the seas to calm down, as we have to cross Pamlico Sound (only a couple of miles) and go up the Neuse River (notoriously wild; "no Neuse is good Neuse...").  Winds will continue to diminish - expect 15-20 tomorrow; less next day; etc.

We continue to watch Sandy destroy New York and New Jersey - and are real glad we are not there anymore.  Cousins have lost power in both states; you all [yawl ...] are probably following the news as we are.

Spirits are so-so here.  Getting cabin fever, but not bad enough to take the boat out yet.  Everyone is now taking it day-by-day; will decide today about tomorrow, etc. etc.

Thanks to everyone for their support by e-mail and Facebook.  We can't believe how many people seem to be actually reading our blogs!  

Report: Monday 29 October 2012 – 08:30

Day 4 of the Hurricane Sandy Hostage Crisis

The worst is over.  Sandy passed by us last night, well out to sea east of Cape Hatteras.  We still will have winds today - probably 20-25 knots with gusts to 40. The same as we have been having, except now shifting to the northwest.  The winds will continue as Sandy continues her attack on the east coast.  Glad we are not in New York or New Jersey - hope they make it through okay. Landfall is a day or 2 away.

Still no wind problem, as we are sheltered from all directions except south and southeast (and then, only a couple of miles of fetch), and that is not going to happen until Sandy is long gone.  The boat is not rocking nearly as much as before; hardly at all.  There was a surge last night, the water came up about 1-1/2 feet, and has stopped rising.  Checked the dock lines last night, moved a fender-board down to compensate. Rain is much less intense.  

There has been 100% humidity for several days; boat doesn't leak but there is a lot of condensation on the inside.  The diesel heater is working wonderfully. Other than wiping up drips on the windows occasionally, we are still dry inside.  I am glad we have a new boat!

Still no worries about shore power.  We are running the boat on batteries, 12 volt, with a charger running off shore power.  If the land power goes off, we can always run the engine to keep the batteries charged.  So, no problem until we run out of diesel, and we have enough aboard for many days, if not a week or two, or more. In some ways, we are better off than those ashore who are dependent on the power grid.

Events today at Camp Dowry Creek:  9:00 Yoga (optional). 10:30 Continuing South on the ICW –  routes; anchorages; marinas - discussion of experiences and interests.  2:00 Power - wind, solar, generators, etc.  Power consumption.  5:30 Sundowners and cocktail party.  The wonderful cruisers' conference continues.

Julie O'Brien - sailor friend from Minnesota - e-mailed us that a couple she knows from Charleston Marina (South Carolina) is also cruising and holed up at this marina.  So we got to meet and talk with John and Helen Leddy (at the happy hour last night).

If all goes well, we may finally escape from here (Dowry Creek Marina, Belhaven NC) by Thursday or Friday.  Then we have 245 miles to Myrtle Beach down the ICW - have to get there by Thanksgiving week.  Should work if the weather holds after this.

Report: Sunday 28 October 2012 – 09:00

For latest’s hurricane news and forecasts, see the information at:
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/

We had an interesting night.  Strong winds, rain.  Winds now 25 knots, gusting to 40; sometimes a little higher, often a little lower.  Wind from NE now slowly backing to North; that means the hurricane center is starting to pass to the east of us, off the Carolina coasts.  Won't be a direct hit here; probably not even on the Delmarva Peninsula now – sorry about that, New Jersey.

The real problem is that, although the winds are not supposed to get much worse, this will probably continue for several days.  But everyone is warm, dry, and well fed.

Boat has been rolling all night.  I find it much more comfortable to be lying down; we both slept very well.  Kind of rough sitting up. Even if shore power goes away, we have batteries, and enough diesel to recharge for many days. So we have lights, refrigeration, cold beer, food, friends. The forced-air diesel heating system is working very well – and was well worth the 6 boat units we paid for it.

Dock lines are holding.  The marina crew has been walking the docks, inspecting everyone's lines.  No significant surge. Rough here, considering we have almost no fetch – we can't imagine what it is like out in Pamlico Sound (or even off Cape Hatteras). This is the best possible hurricane hole to be in, in North Carolina – can't imagine what it would be like elsewhere.

We are spider-webbed between several pelican posts; we have about 8 dock lines out (read: ALL), in all directions.  For those of you who laughed that we carry 8 fenders and 2 fender-boards: Ha!  And we're not even touching the dock or posts.  There is no way the boat can go anywhere; even without the lines, the boat is trapped between pelican posts and finger piers.  And these docks survived Irene last year, with 109 mph winds here. No problem.

Events today at "Camp Dowry Creek":  9:00 Yoga (optional). 10:30 Laptops, iPads, etc. for boats – discussion.  Followed by individual work and programming.  2:00 Birding Aboard (with Diana Doyle).  5:30 Sundowners and cocktail party.  People are in (and full of) good spirits. Some people here have been through worse; those with experience are less worried than us newbie’s.

We (and everyone else) are wearing full foulies when making the trip to/from the boat and the clubhouse ashore.  Winds aren't supposed to get a lot worse; and we are very careful making the trip on the dock.  We can easily get ashore any time we want to; may spend much of the next day in the clubhouse.  If necessary, we can shlep blankets and pillows there and sleep on the floor (but I don't think it will be necessary.)  Note that we are NOT away from the docks and on-shore shelter (and have no intention of leaving here until it's all over.)

Latest forecast calls for landfall probably near Atlantic City. Sounds like Jersey, New York and especially Long Island are not the places to be.  Good luck to all up there.

As usual, Internet and phone is if-fy here.  If the shore loses power, we might lose communications.  Don't worry – we will be fine even if you can't hear from us.
Ilona is taking pictures so others can see what's going on.

  - Bob & Ilona, @ Dowry Creek Marina, just east of Belhaven NC.

Erie Canal closing

oh, the ear-eye-e was a rising and the gin was a-gettin' low ...

HURRICANE SANDY 10/26 UPDATE

The Erie Canal from Lock E-8.(Scotia) to Lock E-17 (Little Falls) is projected to close at 7:00 AM on Sat, October, 27, 2012. Water levels in this section will begin to be lowered, at that time, to approximately 3-5 feet below minimum navigation
levels. Any vessels remaining in this section which are able to navigate at reduced water levels, will be allowed to transit to safe harbor. Additional closures are possible depending on the storm track.

Bahamas Bound Discussion Group

An impromptu group, comparing notes and swapping advice - for those of us heading towards the Bahamas.   One of the events at the Hurricane Sandy Hostage Crisis Convention, for those of us holed up near Belhaven, North Carolina.

Mark Doyle, Bob & Ilona Rouda, and others.
Photo by Michelle Bennett, s/v A La Mer.

Events for the Hurricane Sandy Hostage Crisis

Schedule of events for those of us at the Dowry Creek Marina (Belhaven, NC), for the next several days.  Organized by Mark Doyle (m/v Semi-Local).

This is turning into one hell of a great boater's rendezvous, convention and party! [Keeping our spirits up as we take our liquid spirits down ...]

Sandy report 10-27 0800

The dark blue area is Tropical Storm Warning - winds in excess of 39 mph.  We are just outside that - see red arrow.  Looks like we will get some winds and a lot of rain, little surge. No problem!

But we expect to be here for awhile - probably several days. We have lots of books, food, rum, beer, and friends!

Ihana has a date with Sandy

Where we are at - the safest place on the whole east coast! [Except maybe for on-the-hard.]
If the hurricane stays offshore (all models predict that), we are in the good [left-hand] quadrant - which means winds NE->N->NW.  Perfect, as we have little fetch to the north.  We are literally "up a creek", protected from all sides except south, so little surge expected [i.e. we won't float up, over and off the docks and pelican poles.]

Tucked in on Dowry Creek, near Belhaven NC

Dowry Creek Marina (in lower- center above)
Note protection from N, W & E.

Stay out there, Sandy!
Better here in Carolina than in Florida or the Northeast.

HURRICANE SANDY

Hurricane Sandy is coming!

We arrived by 1 PM today, Thursday, at the Dowry Creek Marina just outside of Belhaven, NC. 

We're spider-webbed in between the pelican posts at the dock – and staying here until Hurricane Sandy comes (hopefully not) and goes.  It's hot, no wind – hard to believe a storm is coming.  

We're on the north shore of the Pungo River – best place to be – the hurricane is expected to pass east of us, so we will have winds from the NE (as it approaches) on Friday night and Saturday; N as it passes on Sunday morning, then NW through Monday or Tuesday.  Winds expected to be around 40 knots for several days! We couldn't have found a better hurricane hole anywhere within 50 to 100 miles (that is accessible by water).

Internet access sucks here; don't worry if you don't hear from us. We're safe. Cell phone works sometimes …

Pea Soup Fog

PEA SOUP FOG this morning, as we pulled anchor and left the Alligator River.  

We used everything we had – motor, autohelm, compass, radar, chartplotter, automatic identification system, binoculars (visibility about 50 feet), depth sounder, wind vane for speed and direction, GPS and paddle-wheel speed logs, barometer, coffee, and follow-any-lead-boat (when we could spot it).  Everything except the sails …

Ilona on watching ahead; Bob on the instruments and the helm. 

The fog lifted after about an hour of IFR (instrument flight rules).  Once we left the wider river – after an hour or so – we could steer through the Alligator-Pungo Canal by watching the banks on either side.

So, we made it to our hurricane safe haven today.

Peggy's comments

Peggy Crider helped us move the boat down the Chesapeake, from Annapolis MD to Hampton VA.  Here is what she wrote to us, after coming back home from her trip [quoted, with permission]:

"Thanks again for the opportunity to sail with you down the Chesapeake.
For me, it was a great opportunity to learn what it takes to live aboard,
plan for the next day's journey and provision.  Of course there is the
head, refrigeration, storage, engine, lines, sails, anchors and much more
to consider!  Thanks for the lovely dinners and conversation, time at the
helm and instructions on the electronics!  It all was a snapshot into what
it takes, after you figure in the finances of course!

Traveling in that part of the US, in that mode of transportation gave
everything such a different slant on life.  The people, their stories, the
weather and the wide open sea with its precious harbors of refuge offer a
vast array of experiences for the taking."

Marine Electronics

For the first time in recent history, ALL of the marine electronics on the boat seem to be working properly, and all at the same time.

Now I can do something else besides boat repair for awhile. Bets are being taken as to which system will fail next, and how soon.

Great Dismal Swamp pictures

traveling through the Great Dismal Swamp
on the ICW

the dock at the Drummond Feeder Canal
where we tied up for a night

nothing could be finer ...

early morning parade along the Dismal Swamp Canal

view from our boat, anchored at Goat Island

Deep Creek Lock on the Dismal Swamp Canal

Goat Island at sunset

m/v Semi-Local, Mark & Diana Doyle,
publishers of several waterway guides -
at Goat Island anchorage

shabbat dinner on s/v-Ihana, in the Dismal Swamp

Dismal Swamp Canal

Not Dismal at all. Beautiful!!!  Glad we came this way - even if we have to miss dinner and tie-up at Coinjock ...

We tied up to a dock in the middle of nowhere last night.  Nobody around. Extremely quiet. Although the sign warned us, the bears did not show up.  Good thing that dock was there - we wouldn't have made the next dock before dark.  Our depth gauge said 4'4"; our draft is 4'9" - hmm....
Up in the Dismal, between the locks - no tide, no current, no wind - no problem!

We made it another whopping five miles today, to the Dismal Swamp Visitor Center, and stopped for "a few hours" - and we are still here!  Today was D.S. Days - a street fair of sorts at the park, with stuff to (not) buy, exhibits, food (hot dogs), free bicycles (we did), swamp boardwalk (did that too), other boaters to talk at and to, and are now trapped as the inner boat in an overnight raft-up at the not-big-enough free dock.

Tomorrow we make the morning lock out of here, then go to the Goat Island Anchorage (if the Doyles are still there), then maybe (or not) onward to Elizabeth City, NC.  Weather depending, we make the jump over the [can't be as bad as they say-] Albemarle Sound and into shelter in the Alligator [really?] River the next day.

MARK - when would be a good time for that crossing?  Should we be as scared or as cautious as your guide suggests?
And, are you still @ Goat Island tonight?

Active Captain is here!

A large powerboat pulled into the Hampton Marina today - it was Karen and Jeff, the people who developed and are running ActiveCaptain.com   Turns out they are here for a few days, on their way south.  Was great to talk with her today, since we have been enthusiastically using Active Captain to find our way for the last few months [and love it].

Active Captain is forming an alliance/partnership with the SSCA.  So, Karen and Kate may be getting together here.

Had a farewell dinner with Jim and Peggy tonight.  They are flying back to Minnesota tomorrow morning.  That brings us back to our original crew of two.

Tomorrow, we plan to head south across Hampton Roads and up the Elizabeth River past Norfolk and Portsmouth and into the ICW.  Probably will take the Dismal Swamp branch, but don't have to decide for another 15 miles or so.

Up the mast today

I finally got around to replacing the broken cable, connecting the masthead windvane with the deck [and then on to the Raymarine wind display].  Two other couples helped us, threading the new cable down inside the mast. I got to work out, 51 feet up above the water - a pleasant hour and a half or so.

The boating community really helps each other out.  Thanks to Tom, Wendy, Bill and Maureen, and Ilona, for their help while we rethreaded the mast.

Still have to make the below-deck connections, but I can do that anytime.

Note to Bob: Next time, let the professionals step the mast.

Fleet gathering in Hampton, VA

Lots of boats - sailboats - pulled in today.  Many or most are heading south, laying over here in the Hampton Downtown Marina.  Met lots more fellow travelers.

Kate invited us to join her at her condo this evening.  She is a SSCA [Seven Seas Cruising Association] Port Host.  Several other sailors and locals were there, including Mike [Kate's] and Joan [another SSCA Port Captain].  Great time.  What a community here.

Hampton Roads

We were in foulies all day as we finished off the lower Chesapeake in moderate winds and cool temperatures.  Kind of fun getting through Hampton Roads, what with currents coming from all directions, especially with strong winds (mid 20s?) as we motored through the exposed channel into Hampton.  With light rain.  Now very humid as the real rain moves in tonight. But we are docked and dry. Laying over a few days, then the (mostly sheltered) ICW!

Hampton Roads, take me south 
To the place, it is warm
East Virginia, ICW 
Take me south, Hampton Roads 

Yorktown, VA

Tied up on the city public docks, after motoring down the Chesapeake from Deltaville, VA.

Tomorrow we get to visit the historic city of Yorktown, the historic free trolley all around the town, the historic Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center, the historic Yorktown Victory Center, the historic Main Steet, and all the historic bars, pubs and restaurants.  Don't think we are leaving here for awhile.

Besides, I hear the French have the area blockaded ...

Peggy at the helm

Jim at the bow

Anchored in Mill Creek

Today we motored and sailed for 40 miles, down the Chesapeake 

and across the mouth of the Potomac River.  

Anchored tonight on Mill Creek, up the Wicomico River,

on the Chesapeake west shore.

We are now only about 50 miles from Hampton Roads.  Shorter sailing days now.

Beautiful anchorage, protected on all sides.  We are anchored in the middle.
10 to 11 feet everywhere, excellent mud holding.

A few other boats are also here.

Peggy & Jim Kimmet, on-board at sunset.

Solomons, Maryland

The adventure continues.  We motored and sailed (and both), from Oxford MD on the Eastern Shore (DelMarVa peninsula) across and down the Chesapeake to Solomons on the Western Shore.  It was cold but less rainy.  Nice tailwind, seas only around a foot or thereabouts.  Now in a real nice marina -
The Ilona is cooking dinner and we have warm showers and Dogfish Head 90 minute IPA (!).

Pictures coming soon.

Voyage Map

sv-Ihana
late June through early October, 2012

Rainy Day

It rained all day today here in Annapolis.  Very cold too. We decided to stay put and went to the free seminars at the Boat Show (i.e. indoors at the Waterfront Marriott - dry & heated) -  Bahamas for First Timers; Lin Pardey on 16 Ways to Get Your Lover to share your dream; Cruising the ICW; Cruising the Chesapeake.  Pretty good, worth hanging around for.

Tomorrow - headed out (finally)!  We're going sailing, down the Chesapeake to the marina at [to be decided.]

Preparing to move on

Planning to leave Annapolis tomorrow.  Sailing south on the Chesapeake.

Pumpout, water, diesel, groceries, stuff we need at the Boat Show, load Jim & Peggy (crew for the next  leg of our trip) - all to do, today.

Weather tomorrow:  Rain predicted.  Of course.

at the Annapolis Boat Show

at the B.S. in Annapolis

We're off to the Annapolis Boat Show today.

Dinghy has a new motor.  Ihana has a new anchor = 33# Rocna; now we can sleep easier. And now have charts for the ICW so we can travel south on Sunday or Monday.

Still hot and muggy. Supposed to be in 60's on Sunday. Got water by dinghy & carbuoys today. Trying to get into seminars today. $35 admission today to boat show; not clear if you can attend seminars if don't have wrist band. 

Jim and Peggy Kimmet, new crew, arriving today....for the boat show.

Yesterday's visitors:
1. John Freitag & Kathy (from Washington DC) - he was my college roommate, even before and while I met The Ilona.
2. Jan Jarvinen - Ilona's brother from La Crosse, WI.  Currently consulting in Frederick, MD.
3. A couple from Lake City, MN, who went down the river from there in 2007 and have been fulltimers living on their boat ever since (at the next mooring ball now).

The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly

The good:  I finally got the AIS working again!  This time it was the cable connecting it to the chartplotter.  So it works again, until next time.  Had a lot of help by e-mail from Colin, the Tech Service guru in England.  [This repair gave me something to do today; it's raining and we are on a mooring ball.]

The bad: For the second time, our [formerly-owned] Suzuki dinghy outboard broke - instead of the shear pin, it was some internal part that broke.  When this happened several years ago in Florida, it cost us about $200 and a couple of days to get it fixed.  This time I threw the damn thing away, and we bought a new Honda 2.3 hp 4-stroke short-shaft outboard - will have it by tomorrow.  I just can't go with "unreliable".  Should have bought a Honda in the first place. Well, there goes another Boat Unit ...

The ugly: The cable connecting the wind vane with the boat (running down inside the mast) is broken.  Rayfuckingmarine wants $107 to replace the wire and proprietary connector, plus shipping.  And then there will be the mast-threading and (partial-?) mast unstepping.  This time we will find someone else to do it. [Yeah, it broke because of our stepping the mast ourselves at a lousy place with river swells and wakes, but the use of 32-gauge or smaller wire had a lot to do with it too.]  Meanwhile, it's back to sailing without a wind gauge. I think we used to do this all the time ...  And more money, of course.

CRUISING :: "Boat repair and maintenance in exotic locations ..."