Sunday, February 10, 2013

The Dark Side of Cruising - Day 1


Traumatic Adventure – Day 1

The adventure begins:

We are recovering from a couple of pretty traumatic days.  Read this, if you think that all cruising is like it reads on our Blog.  There are downsides.  For example:

Day before yesterday – we pulled into Islamorada in the Florida Keys, off the ICW on the Florida Bay side. 

Our buddy-boat ran hard aground coming in, on sand, in a place where the charts showed at least 7 feet of water (they draw five).  TowBoat US pulled them off; the Florida Police were not happy, inspected their boat and the sea bottom, and would have had them pay for any repairs to the sea floor.  Fortunately, all the coral is on the ocean side, and a sandy bottom didn't need any repairs.  Well, that's how the afternoon started.

Following them, we got out of there and set our wonderful (soon-to-be-ex) Rocna 33# anchor – with 50 feet of chain and 50 feet of line, expecting strong winds that evening. Went below to take it easy.

SUDDENLY, our boat felt like it was hit with 10-foot waves – it was getting pulled and bounced and I thought a freighter had run into it!  We ran up on deck to see that a big motor yacht had caught our rode while motoring by us too closely!  We yelled and they stopped.  Now we had 2 boats tied together (rode wrapped around their prop), and no anchor set on either.

We quickly dug out our spare anchor (28# Bruce clone), 20 feet chain, 150 feet line – and I took the dinghy out and set this.  We now had 2 boats (one very big) hanging on one anchor.  And we were hundreds of feet away from our initial anchor point.

The guy in the other boat [more about what I think of them, later] dove under his boat and confirmed that our line was cut, and our anchor and chain were gone – forever, since we don't know exactly where we were when they cut us.

They called Towboat US, who eventually cut us free from their prop.

Our main emergency spare anchor (28# CQR-German clone) and rode (50 feet chain, 200 feet line) was buried deep under the V–berth. Ilona tore everything apart to get them, and I set a second anchor (needed for the evening's expected high winds – and because I didn't know how well the Bruce would hold after what it had just gone through.)

Our boat's insides, by now, are a complete mess!  Everything is thrown everywhere.

Well, Ilona called the nearest West Marine (Key Largo, about 25 miles away?), and got them to get us another Rocna anchor, chain, and line.  Whitney, a woman who works there, volunteered to drive the stuff up from Key Largo to the nearest restaurant, about a mile or two from us by dinghy. 

The other boat called West Marine with THEIR credit card – this cost them over $1100 for the replacement anchor and rode.  I cheered when I saw how much it had cost them, and would have been happier if it was even more.

By now, we have been working for several hours, and are beyond exhausted.  We still had to go ashore to meet Whitney and the equipment.  We gobbled down a couple of burgers at the Lorelei Restaurant, Tiki Bar, and completely jammed outdoor restaurant (amplified obnoxious music, of course). And we waited for a couple of hours for Whitney and the stuff.  Couldn't even have any drinks, since we still had to load over 100 lbs of stuff into the dinghy and motor it back for  a couple of miles in the dark, to our mother ship.  THANK YOU to marinebeam.com who had sold us a LED bulb for our masthead anchor light – so we could find our boat in the dark in the anchorage (25 boats?), since we had the brightest light.

Back on board by 9 or 10 pm. More exhausted.  Got some sleep.  I was worried about the winds coming in, and how I was going to get the Bruce up the next morning (it sure must have been pulled in deep by having two boats on it). The CQR, fortunately, by now was rigged on our windlass.

Diving for the lost Rocna anchor was out of the question – it was too rough, didn't know exactly where it was, we were too tired, and stronger winds coming in overnight.

More in the next Blog entry – it ain't over yet!



The Dark Side of Cruising – Day 2


Traumatic Adventure – Day 2

The story continues:

After little sleep, we had to move on early the next morning. Strong winds built up about 5 am, and we were on a lee shore and would be the next night when the 30+ knot winds would hit us.  Fortunately (I don't get to use that word too often in this narrative), I got the Bruce up using our dinghy.  And we took off at 8 am, bound for Marathon and the shelter of Boot Key Harbor – with our buddy boat following.

Crab & Lobster pots all the way – too many to let the Autohelm do the steering. Full alert all day.

Not bad motoring this day – about 35+ miles to Marathon.  Tail wind.  We were too tired to even put out the Genoa (!), so motored all day.  Buddy-boat followed, jib up sometimes.  

No problem until we reached the Moser Channel and went through the 7-mile bridge to the ocean side of the Keys.  Now we got the full force and fetch of the 20+ knot winds, on our nose - rough for ½ hour until Boot Key and shelter.

Meanwhile, Ilona [cell phone] checked out Boot Key Harbor and everything within miles – all the mooring balls were full (14 boats already on the waiting list), inside anchorage was completely full also, and ALL marinas (that could take our 5' draft) were also full.  And all boats steaming in all the time, for shelter. 

Only possibility would be to anchor outside of the harbor, weather shore, ocean side, but really strong winds and waves for the next week or more!  [General feeling:  We are really fucked!]

Fortunately [for us; I do get to use that word again], one marina in Boot Key could take us in for a week, since the Asst. Harbormaster would let us use his slip while his boat was pulled for a bottom job. We got a slip!  We are saved! At least for a week or 10 days; expecting strong winds that whole time.

Our buddy boat got screwed, though.  They had to anchor out on the ocean overnight west of the harbor entrance (mostly offshore wind from the east). They decided to take off this morning and head back towards Miami, on the bay side.  They will have winds today gusting to maybe 30 knots.  They have a 40' Caliber cutter. They are pretty tired also; we will miss Frank and Diane, and hope they make it safely. They reported that it was really rough for the first few miles until they crossed under the 7-mile bridge to the bay side.

We, meanwhile, aren't going anywhere.  I hit the beer [breakfast!] as soon as we were tied to the dock, slept immediately for a few hours, then Ilona cooked a great dinner aboard and we slept all night [nightmares, but what-the-hell.]

We will be here in Marathon for at least a week, until the winds calm down enough that we can get somewhere else.  It may be obvious, but we will not be sailing on to Key West, and the Bahamas are out of the question.  Getting back to the South Florida mainland will be enough of a challenge for us, but that problem is many days away.

Today: Laundry, shower, replacing all the anchors and rodes, and rearranging the cabin and V-berth and stowing everything back where it belongs.

I suppose we should bike or dinghy over to the harbor office and register (in person, only) for the mooring ball waiting list.  But there won't be any openings for a week or two, until the winds calm down enough that other boats can travel.  By then, we may make a break for the mainland also.

Someone please tell me why we are here and why we are doing this. 


Would anyone like to trade, our boat for a condo in Death Valley?

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Marathon

We made it to Marathon today.  We're in a slip in Boot Key Harbor for at least another week.
Safe and sound and exhausted - we really did run a Marathon today.

More news, later, about yesterday's problems.


Thursday, February 7, 2013

Key Largo

Another great day. We actually got to spend some time sailing - full sails - on Barnes Sound *without* using the engine!  First time in a real long time. [This is the same place we sailed our s/v-Maija Lisa, the Precision-23, a couple of years ago - with Ron Carlson.]

We moved further down the Keys today:  Card Sound, Barnes Sound, Blackwater Sound, and now anchored in Tarpon Basin - in barely enough water to float our 5'-draft boat.
Caught a ride on our buddy boat's dinghy to the really neat Tarpon Bay dinghy dock, then trekked down the Overseas Highway for over 1/2 mile to the Publix grocery where we resupplied with fresh food and staples.

Fresh fish grilled tonight on board, with another beautiful sunset.  Perfect weather.  Winds dropped tonight, so we will sleep well.


Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Miami-Biscayne-Card Sound-Key Largo

Wonderful night yesterday, at anchor with view of downtown Miami.  Quiet, Beautiful.
Nice trip south today - even got a couple of hours in with full sails up!
Anchored now for the night off of Pumpkin Key, on the inside (Card Sound) side of Key Largo.


Tuesday, February 5, 2013

and later, that same evening ...



Down the coast to Biscayne Bay

Today we motorsailed (jib up, NE wind, light) from Fort Lauderdale, down to Miami.
We are currently anchored off of the Miami Marine Stadium, in northern Biscayne Bay (see chart, below).
Traveling with our buddy-boat, s/v-Utopia with Diane & Frank Albani.  Headed down to the Florida Keys tomorrow.
Weather is perfect, as usual.

Fort Lauderdale to Miami

Miami skyline from s/v Ihana @ anchor

Closeup of downtown Miami
Singing: How I love ya, how I love ya, my dear Miami ...